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Every 10,000 mile oil change?

GTIMKVI201

New member
On every car ive ever owned, i personally changed the oil every 3,000 miles. so for me, 10,000 miles is a little excessive. It all depends on what you use your car for. do u take short trips or do u drive your car on the highway a lot? the reason we change our oils is due to the fact that the additives in our oil will only with stand a certain amount of mileage/ time frame before they are no longer present. I bring this issue up for some reasons. I believe 10,000 miles is too much unless you constantly drive longer trips on the highway. I am considering changing the oil every 5k, but i do believe that the no maintaince program will not cover every 5k, but only every 10k. Let me know your feedback on this topic.
 

GTIMKVI201

New member
thanks that is very helpful its just a little discussion i wanted to add to this form for all the 2010 mkvi gti owners
 

absoluteczech

GolfMKV ADMlN
3000 is for conventional oils, if you use synthetic 10k is normal. BMW maintenance interval is 15k

if it bugs you that much change it every 5
 

kgbzz1

Passed Driver's Ed
It could get interesting as opinions vary greatly on this topic. On my last car (Acura TL) I changed the oil (synthetic) at 10k for the life of the lease (4 years). I have not decided on this car yet, the difference being that I bought the car.

I suspect I will change it at 10k for the first and then consider every 5k. I don't really have to think about it a great deal for a while.
 

GTIMKVI201

New member
well thats another story since you would never changed a leased cars oil every 5k or 3k, your not gonna own it for awhile. if u plan to own the car for a long time i could see the 5k, but the question is are u wasting money changing it every 5k when the dealer suggest every 10k. its a never ending story and every person has there opinions, but if your changing it every 5k when it says 10k, your also creating 2 times the amount of polution when it eventually has to get burned ya know.
 

path

Ready to race!
the guy that sold me the car said that all GTI's are run on a dyno, drained of oil, and refilled before they ship...said that this will remove the worst of the metal shavings and everything else will be caught by the filter. told me to stick to the recommended 10K mi service.

of course he also told me the car had bi-xenon headlamps. i wont fault him for that though, considering mine was one of the first 2010's, and the previous generation all had them.
 
the guy that sold me the car said that all GTI's are run on a dyno, drained of oil, and refilled before they ship...said that this will remove the worst of the metal shavings and everything else will be caught by the filter. told me to stick to the recommended 10K mi service.

of course he also told me the car had bi-xenon headlamps. i wont fault him for that though, considering mine was one of the first 2010's, and the previous generation all had them.

GTI's are dyno'ed at the factory like most motors manufactured around the world - don't think they change the oil. Most of the launch cars here in the US had the optional Bi-Xenon's and it is very easy to tell the difference just looking at the car. The projector lens with the silver hood is the HID unit while the halogen lights (now standard on the Mk 6) look like conventional halogen lights. Did you drive the car prior to purchasing? Again, the difference is obvious.

All 2.0 L turbo TSI motors made by VW (that is the GTI motor) are also tested for main bearing issues now at the dealer during PDI prior to being released to a customer. Which means that a technician will get in your brand new GTI and rag the hell out of the motor for 20 miles. Actually, it's a very specific testing protocol from VW designed to induce immediate bearing failure if you have a bad one. But it's pretty brutal (redline a brand new motor for a certain number of miles, maintain 100% throttle for a certain time, etc.).

In spite of all that, leave the initial oil in for 10,000 miles per the manual. It is a break-in oil from the factory and you should NOT change it early. I know I want to change mine early (5,000 miles) but trust the engineers on this one. Many of the 1.8T motors that had excessive oil consumption were from owners who did NOT follow the initial oil change guidelines and break-in procedure outlined by VW. After break-in and the initial change, I will be changing my oil every 5,000 miles because the 2.0L TSI motor has a very high shearing factor (is very hard on motor oil). But that's after the first one at 10,000 for me.

Hope that helps!
 

path

Ready to race!
nope didn't drive it first, traded my MK5 in for an MK6, and the one i wanted was brought in from another dealer. pretty sure i knew more about the car than anyone at the dealership. i'm very nonplussed about the headlights, the old bi-xenons worked fine, and the new halogens work fine too. look better in the daytime IMO.

interesting info on the factory torture test though. what are the other break-in recommendations for the GTI? i have broken in many vehicles, 2 and 4 wheel, and used the same basic principal. try not to maintain any one constant rev if you can help it, row the gearbox as much as possible, don't bounce off the redline too frequently and give it some gas...never good to baby a motor too much on break in
 
try not to maintain any one constant rev if you can help it, row the gearbox as much as possible, don't bounce off the redline too frequently and give it some gas...never good to baby a motor too much on break in

First 1,000 miles (per VW manual)" no full throttle, do not exceed 2/3 of the maximum speed possible as indicated on the speedo, watch the oil level ". Dieznutz on vwvortex has an excellent post but the short version (my wording) is:

1) No cruise control.
2) Try and keep the revs at 4,000 rpm or lower. After engine is warm, higher rpms are OK but take it easy until it's at proper operating temps.
3) Yep, shift frequently. Driving home after picking mine up (320 miles from NJ back home to Maryland via the GSP), I was in 4th, 5th and 6th and anywhere from 55 mph to 90 mph. I looked like an idiot I'm sure but there was a good reason for that.
4) Check oil level every fillup if not more often. Break in process is supposed to burn some oil. Follow the manual on fill level - do not overfill or let it run too low.
5) Our TSI motors (and turbo applications in general) need boost and backpressure to properly seat rings, seals, etc. So once you're warmed up, yes - controlled full throttle to 4K on the tach and then letting engine braking slow you back down as an example would be good. Cranking it up then redlining it in 1st would be BAD! Lugging it on the interstate with a very light load in 6th gear at 1,800 rpm for a long time would be BAD!

And if in doubt, read the manual!
 

woofie2

Ready to race!
First 1,000 miles (per VW manual)" no full throttle, do not exceed 2/3 of the maximum speed possible as indicated on the speedo, watch the oil level ". Dieznutz on vwvortex has an excellent post but the short version (my wording) is:

1) No cruise control.
2) Try and keep the revs at 4,000 rpm or lower. After engine is warm, higher rpms are OK but take it easy until it's at proper operating temps.
3) Yep, shift frequently. Driving home after picking mine up (320 miles from NJ back home to Maryland via the GSP), I was in 4th, 5th and 6th and anywhere from 55 mph to 90 mph. I looked like an idiot I'm sure but there was a good reason for that.
4) Check oil level every fillup if not more often. Break in process is supposed to burn some oil. Follow the manual on fill level - do not overfill or let it run too low.
5) Our TSI motors (and turbo applications in general) need boost and backpressure to properly seat rings, seals, etc. So once you're warmed up, yes - controlled full throttle to 4K on the tach and then letting engine braking slow you back down as an example would be good. Cranking it up then redlining it in 1st would be BAD! Lugging it on the interstate with a very light load in 6th gear at 1,800 rpm for a long time would be BAD!

And if in doubt, read the manual!
Pretty much like a TDI, but the RPM band is shifted accordingly to the Gas car.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501

If you are driving the car, change the oil every 10k miles or annually, with a high-compression turbo car, you should always use synthetic oil!
 

path

Ready to race!
1) No cruise control.
2) Try and keep the revs at 4,000 rpm or lower. After engine is warm, higher rpms are OK but take it easy until it's at proper operating temps.
3) Yep, shift frequently. Driving home after picking mine up (320 miles from NJ back home to Maryland via the GSP), I was in 4th, 5th and 6th and anywhere from 55 mph to 90 mph. I looked like an idiot I'm sure but there was a good reason for that.
4) Check oil level every fillup if not more often. Break in process is supposed to burn some oil. Follow the manual on fill level - do not overfill or let it run too low.
5) Our TSI motors (and turbo applications in general) need boost and backpressure to properly seat rings, seals, etc. So once you're warmed up, yes - controlled full throttle to 4K on the tach and then letting engine braking slow you back down as an example would be good. Cranking it up then redlining it in 1st would be BAD! Lugging it on the interstate with a very light load in 6th gear at 1,800 rpm for a long time would be BAD!

And if in doubt, read the manual!

yeah dude, i think we are pretty much on the same page!
 
Pretty much like a TDI, but the RPM band is shifted accordingly to the Gas car.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501

If you are driving the car, change the oil every 10k miles or annually, with a high-compression turbo car, you should always use synthetic oil!

Well, if you want to ensure you stay under warranty with VW you MUST use a VW 502.00 approved oil (all are very high quality synthetics). Please note that "meets 502.00 standards" doesn't get it from a warranty standpoint so be careful there if you're changing your own!
 

Kimi

New member
Notice BMW and Volkswagen recommend larger service intervals as they're the ones who are doing it at no cost to you. I drive fairly hard and 5000 miles is the maximum for me, at 6000 it runs roughly. I pay out of pocket for the extra one in between, leased or not.
 

Jever

Ready to race!
The service booklet says to service at 5k and every 5k. Service covered 5k through 35k. The maintance is just outlined what they do every 10k. Your suppose to change the oil every 5k. And it's free to do so...
 
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