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Well, it’s about 10 years old, and BT was trash then anyway, sounds like a good time for a stereo upgrade!

I still think GolNat is right about the BT module. My media module looked just like yours, but my BT was under the passenger seat. Maybe they look the same, but my BT module was much bigger than that, and I thought BT was either under the seat, or built into the head unit, never heard of any...

Yes, regular stereo keys will work. The clips are a pain though, mine got all bent out of shape so I had to scrap them.

OP mentioned the lack of key hole, so I figured that using a second key was a potential option they were considering if there was a key hole.

There is an external key hole, you just need to pop the panel off of the door handle.

Do you need switched power? Or will the head unit switch for you? I’m running an aftermarket head unit, so it does the switching and I just tapped into the 12v socket in the hatch.

Are the speakers stock? As a basic starting reference, I don’t run excellent 6.5” midbasses lower than about 70hz. This is will solid baffles, and good sound deadening. You’ll probably not want to go below 80-100 hz. As for the low pass filter, that is taken care of via a capacitor in the OEM...

I got the one that has the factory looking bezel with physical knobs/buttons. There’s no way I’d run a stereo with only touch screen controls. Again, it has some quirks, but I’ve had just as many quirks from much more expensive stereos. I should mention, if you want the best sound quality from...

I’m running a Joying, and for the money it’s great. It’s a bit quirky, but all of the “big brand” stereos I have used have their own quirks.

At a minimum it sounds like you need a new battery. You should be able to fix the auto window by holding the switch all the way down until the window is fully lowered, then all the way up, and repeating that 2-3 times.

I kind of like the idea. I have a Raceng knob that I almost feel is too heavy, I'd be curious how moving the weight to the shifter mechanism would feel.

Oh, have you only done 1 door?

Drilling out the rivets and installing rivnuts and bolts was one of the best uses of time for my needs. Regarding the “thunk” check that door panel carefully to make sure it’s fully seated, if necessary remove again, make sure the panel clips are fully popped, and reinstall.

I’ve been in car audio for a really long time. My GTI has had high end Pioneer, Kenwood, and mid tier Sony. The maestro is great. Every one of those head units had their glitches/quirks so I decided to try a Joying head unit for half the price. It has its own glitches/quirks, but no more than...

Keep trying the white latch. Use a sturdy screwdriver.

You could wire in a resistor, but you might as well just put the bulb in and modify the wiring to tap the camera power and ground to the wires going to the bulb then just tuck the bulb into the cavity.

Put the bulb back in and just tap into the wires.

Worn out a second time? Are you using some strong cleaner on it? My 2014 is still strong. I’ve done euro cupholder, and loads of stereo work, so these pieces have been handled a lot and besides the broken clips on on the bevel and center vents all of the textures/finishes are still intact.

Sure sounds like syncros to me.

It's one of the least accessible places to get to. I messed with it installing a backup camara and routing the wiring, a set of picks made that job doable, but I didn't really investigate how I would fix the tubing if it ever failed on me.