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I can't think of anyplace other than the Slave cylinder TOB or flywheel that you actually use lock Tite. I'd use grease on axle spines. I wouldn't put anything on brake rotor to hub. I use copper anti seize on anything that gets hot exhaust side. I do use high heat thread locker on my Studs and...

No, I have not attempted to change a spring while installed. I was recommended to go with a 10psi spring from Alex and went with that right away. I think it would be possible but a pain in the ass. Removing the wastegate with the turbo mounted would be a pain also. It's not something you...

They are not hard to remove they come out easy. At least mine was verry easy to remove with an extractor. Tubo has to come off though. Soak it in Kroil and all other nuts take the turbo off and it looks like you may have enough sticking out to remove with a small punch or chisel. It looks...

Downstream is 2 upstream is 1.

A TOB squeak noise does not mean it is necessarily failing. These cars did do it new and so did the mK5 it was a common thing. Bad bearings will get louder with heat

Thats a Generic code for Bank one senser Two you only have one bank so its sensor Two. This code can be a few things. What's your second fault?

I'm thinking Control Module too. I Rember seeing this in the past. https://www.shopdap.com/blog/post/2-0t-tsi-vw-and-audi-fuel-pump-control-module.html

Installed A Deatschwerks DW300C in a Carter housing today for the MK6.

I would consider Clutch Master. I thought about an FX250 or 300. It feels fine to me Just firmer the engagement is awesome, but I haven't compared it to anything else in this platform. Last time it went in for an alignment the tech loved the pedal feel. Mentions how smooth engagement and you...

It's doesn't feel too stiff. I think modding the bleeder block doesn't help matters much. If it fails again time to go with a full Sachs kit.

Dropped the Gearbox to do the slave DKM Slave didn't last too long. Luckly the Disc and Pressure plate didn't get fluid on them.

You have the lines swapped on the LPFP or at the filter if its running and no fuel coming out more than likely.

Here is the PN from Turbosmart TS-0645-5052. If you increase spring rates/ boost pressure, you're going to have to tune for it as well.

Stay away from Forge it’s a shitty piston design . It will stick . Turbosmart makes an aftermarket wastefate that is diaphragm based . I am currently using a turbosmart WG for my TTE with a 10lb spring . The turbosmart comes with a 5lb spring to match up closely to the stock wastegate...

OP mine did this today as well. Starting in first is no fun Luckly in heavy traffic.

It is a good idea to do the Clutch then since you're in there like everyone else said.

I've done mine and used the exact same PN as you time when I was OEM. The Cone is how it seals in the pump. That's seats into the pump and the hole mate up fine. Pretty much a JIC fitting on that end.

OP do you Have to start it in gear? If there's no leak under the Car, it's probably the master. If there's fluid around the Bell housing it Slave Cylinder /TOB

They do get longer, I do not disagree but the Pin and the link wear and it adds up to more length. Being dense it's not stretching.

There's none like 1.9 degrees of adjustment. Having an early tensioner is the scary part. Chains don't stretch they wear.