Hello guys, so recently I got a 6 speed mk6 and put an engine in it. Since I was already in there I changed out the clutch with a stock clutch from auto-zone. After getting everything back together I’m having a nightmare with bleeding this thing. I tried to gravity bleed, then vacuum bleed(with a cheap bleeder), then pressure bleed it. I’ve had no success and even changed out the master cylinder to see if that was the issue. I have a firm petal and I even dropped the trans to see if I put something in wrong but it all seems correct. But as soon as I try to start it in gear it wants to take off on me. I’d really appreciate some advice! Thanks in advance
6
Clutch Bleeding Catastrophe
- Thread starter Bdon123
- Start date
MrFancypants
Autocross Champion
If you start it in neutral does it “grind” when you press the clutch pedal and move the shifter into gear? I assume you replaced the slave cylinder?
Are you using the standard two person push->open->close->release->repeat bleeding method?
I somewhat recently flushed the fluid in mine using a piece of clear plastic tubing into a one way check valve. The clear tubing has to be short enough for the fluid to reach it in one pump otherwise it doesn’t work. If you’re feeling really desperate you can get something like a MityVac that’s designed to attach and pull fluid through from the bleeding end.
Are you using the standard two person push->open->close->release->repeat bleeding method?
I somewhat recently flushed the fluid in mine using a piece of clear plastic tubing into a one way check valve. The clear tubing has to be short enough for the fluid to reach it in one pump otherwise it doesn’t work. If you’re feeling really desperate you can get something like a MityVac that’s designed to attach and pull fluid through from the bleeding end.
Thumper
Autocross Champion
Man wish we could post attachements, copied this from a PDF and clipped the image to my imageshack lol
2012 Volkswagen GTI (5K1) L4-2.0L Turbo (CBFA)
Vehicle > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch > Clutch Hydraulic System > Service and Repair > Procedures > 02Q,02QE,02QH Manual Transmission
CLUTCH SYSTEM, BLEEDING
System, Bleeding
Clutch
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
♦ Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit (VAS 5234)
♦ It is not necessary to pre-fill the system.
- Remove the air filter housing if the breather assembly -
arrow
- is not accessible. Refer to one of the following:
Gas engines
Diesel engines.
- Connect the brake charger/bleeder unit.
Use the Bleeder Hose (670 mm) (VAG 1238/B3).
- Connect the bleeder hose to the brake charger/bleeder unit collector bottle.
- Connect the bleeder hose -
A
- to the breather assembly -
arrow
-.
- Apply 2 bar (29 psi) pressure to the system.
- Open the breathe valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Press the
clutch pedal
15 to 20 times rapidly by hand from stop to stop.
- Close the breather valve and turn the brake charger/bleeder unit off.
- After completing the bleeding procedure, and the pressure has dropped from 2 bar (29 psi), press the clutch pedal an additional 10 times by foot.
- If removed, install the air filter housing.
My next guess would be the slave cylinder. Just had a similar issue in my 944 it wouldn't grab when started in gear but once you put the clutch in and selected a gear it would not release the clutch, so putting it in neutral then it would take off. Of course the pedal also would not come back up, but new MC and new slave and works like a charm.
2012 Volkswagen GTI (5K1) L4-2.0L Turbo (CBFA)
Vehicle > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch > Clutch Hydraulic System > Service and Repair > Procedures > 02Q,02QE,02QH Manual Transmission
CLUTCH SYSTEM, BLEEDING
System, Bleeding
Clutch
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
♦ Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit (VAS 5234)
♦ It is not necessary to pre-fill the system.
- Remove the air filter housing if the breather assembly -
arrow
- is not accessible. Refer to one of the following:
Gas engines
Diesel engines.
- Connect the brake charger/bleeder unit.
Use the Bleeder Hose (670 mm) (VAG 1238/B3).
- Connect the bleeder hose to the brake charger/bleeder unit collector bottle.
- Connect the bleeder hose -
A
- to the breather assembly -
arrow
-.
- Apply 2 bar (29 psi) pressure to the system.
- Open the breathe valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Press the
clutch pedal
15 to 20 times rapidly by hand from stop to stop.
- Close the breather valve and turn the brake charger/bleeder unit off.
- After completing the bleeding procedure, and the pressure has dropped from 2 bar (29 psi), press the clutch pedal an additional 10 times by foot.
- If removed, install the air filter housing.
My next guess would be the slave cylinder. Just had a similar issue in my 944 it wouldn't grab when started in gear but once you put the clutch in and selected a gear it would not release the clutch, so putting it in neutral then it would take off. Of course the pedal also would not come back up, but new MC and new slave and works like a charm.
It won’t go into gear when started with the clutch in and have changed the slave with the clutch kit. I was using the hose and a bottle trick with the Pressure bleeder with no success
The slave is new
Man wish we could post attachements, copied this from a PDF and clipped the image to my imageshack lol
2012 Volkswagen GTI (5K1) L4-2.0L Turbo (CBFA)
Vehicle > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch > Clutch Hydraulic System > Service and Repair > Procedures > 02Q,02QE,02QH Manual Transmission
CLUTCH SYSTEM, BLEEDING
System, Bleeding
Clutch
Special tools, testers and auxiliary items required
♦ Brake Charger/Bleeder Unit (VAS 5234)
♦ It is not necessary to pre-fill the system.
- Remove the air filter housing if the breather assembly -
arrow
- is not accessible. Refer to one of the following:
Gas engines
Diesel engines.
- Connect the brake charger/bleeder unit.
Use the Bleeder Hose (670 mm) (VAG 1238/B3).
- Connect the bleeder hose to the brake charger/bleeder unit collector bottle.
- Connect the bleeder hose -
A
- to the breather assembly -
arrow
-.
- Apply 2 bar (29 psi) pressure to the system.
- Open the breathe valve approximately 1/4 turn.
- Press the
clutch pedal
15 to 20 times rapidly by hand from stop to stop.
- Close the breather valve and turn the brake charger/bleeder unit off.
- After completing the bleeding procedure, and the pressure has dropped from 2 bar (29 psi), press the clutch pedal an additional 10 times by foot.
- If removed, install the air filter housing.
My next guess would be the slave cylinder. Just had a similar issue in my 944 it wouldn't grab when started in gear but once you put the clutch in and selected a gear it would not release the clutch, so putting it in neutral then it would take off. Of course the pedal also would not come back up, but new MC and new slave and works like a charm.
MrFancypants
Autocross Champion
Man I’m stumped. At this point I’d bite the bullet and take it apart again and carefully inspect and reinstall everything.
Hey guys! Got an update for you, pulled the whole thing apart, engine and trans out. Put the old clutch back in and bled it and it’s working fine now. I took a hard look at the two clutches and they seem to be different in nature so I’m just gonna take it back and try to get my money back. I plan on just saving for a stage two. Thank y’all so much for your help