CowTownRacer
Drag Racing Champion
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxgnIhmaJLE
Any of you guys use this guide? Any problems with it once I get the covers off?
Any of you guys use this guide? Any problems with it once I get the covers off?
6
DIY: Timing chain, guides, & tensioner resources
- Thread starter mattpowers
- Start date
Hey guys, I just replaced my tensioner as well as the camshaft & balance shaft timing chains & guides. There's a ton of information regarding the tensioner replacement, but not a lot that goes the next bit further into replacing the chains. I am by NO means an expert, so if I make a mistake, please do correct me, but I'm putting out my experience to try to make things easier for others. Also, I know a lot of people have written better information throughout (I'll try to reference it), but if any mods want to take this post and compile it into something else, please do.
Most of the work is the same as replacing the tensioner. In addition to the tools & parts you need for that, you'll need a few extra things. Total time for me took about 3 days, but I don't have a shop or a lift, and it was my first time. The most difficult part for me was actually removing the turbo elbow, which is 3x allen screws that are super difficult to get to. I believe they are 4.5mm on the MK6. I also didn't KNOW that it's necessary, so I kept trying to work around it.
Guides to follow to take everything apart:
- Guide to replacing tensioner by ShopDap.com (This was my first resource, and easiest to follow along with).
- Erball's DIY guide to tensioner replacement
- Tony48's Timing Tensioner & chains tips
- VW Service Manual - Golf MK6 --- This is what I used once the lower timing cover was off.
- VW Service Manual - GTI 2.0 -- Use with above service manual.
Resources for the rest of it:
- Motor mount torque specs
- Guide to TSI motors (good diagrams of timing chains & gears)
- GTI / Golf R Quick Reference guide (Torques, specs, etc.)
- Another diagram of the timing components, with some torques. (note, I believe the marks on the crank are incorrect on this drawing)
Parts required:
This is not exhaustive, but don't count on every kit to give you everything you need. This is to point you in the right direction.
- GTI Timing tools kit (donut to hold crank bolt, counthold tool, camshaft locks, etc.) I used this one, and it worked perfectly on a 2010 GTI CBFA.
- A good set of ball-headed allen wrenches, flexible impact extensions, and some patience
- lower timing cover, upper timing cover, all new seals
- TTY bolts (stretch bolts)-- There are a number of motor mount bolts, all of the lower timing cover bolts, and a bolt on the exhaust camshaft that should all be replaced. Most timing kits do not include these parts
- Oil change
- Timing change kit (chains, guides, tensioners, Permatex sealant, etc.)
Personal advice / tips:
Removing the lower timing cover is a bit of a bear, mostly because of two bolts-- one behind the serpentine belt tensioner, it's not too bad. Take the belt tensioner pulley off, put bolt back on, then pull the bolt to the side with a ratchet and pop the torx out with your impact. The one that gave me hell was the torx behind the turbo elbow, the left-most screw. You will have to remove the elbow (or at least most of the bolts on it) to get to that screw. Many people apparently loosen the electrical connector bracket, remove the turbo elbow. These are all super tight spaces. I used a mini ratchet (the kind that takes screw bits), ball head allens, and flexible impact attachments, and a ton of patience to remove / reinstall those things. Someone on here may have a better technique for that.
I did not replace the oil pump chain, because I beive you have to drop the oil pan as well, and it did not sound like it is problematic. To replace the other two chains, make sure you have your motor in time before you take off anything. If you have the crankshaft dampener set to the mark, you should be good. I went ahead and zip-tied the camshaft chain together, set my camshaft locks in place (if they don't fit perfectly, you can either put a little tension on the camshaft with a wrench, or set one screw of the camshaft brace, then get a tooth to lock with the cam gear, then screw the other one in. You just need to make sure the cams don't spin.
Once those are locked, go ahead and remove your zip tie, remove the tensioner, and take the chains off. Then go ahead and remove any guides you are replacing, and reinstall according to the service manual. As far as timing, each chain has the marks on them (special colored links) that correspond to the timing marks on each gear / cog. Compare to your factory chain to see where to start them, but basically, just make sure that each colored link matches PERFECTLY to each marked gear. make sure it's perfect, install your tensioners, and then if it's all good, remove your cam locks, double check that it's all still perfectly timed, and install your new lower cover (do not re-use, it will be bent, and it will likely leak a ton of oil). Also, make sure to clean the mating surface super well. A razorblade works pretty great.
This is the turbo REMOVED, showing the torx that's hard to get to. The vacuum lines get in the way too. I had to loosen the electrical clip bracket and rotate it out of the way to get the turbo elbow off.
This is a stretch bolt, and should be replaced. I was unaware, so didn't do it, but also definitely OVER torqued it, which is not what I would strongly advise avoiding. learn from my mistakes. Note that when you take your old chain off, it most likely will NOT be lined up with the marks, due to some ratio (only lines up every 30+ rotations), but when you put the new chain on DO line up the links with the marks on the gears. Notice the new chain in the following photos lines up...
Also, because it would really suck to mess this up-- Remember there is a REVERSE threaded bolt on the intake camshaft. This is the one you need one of the special tools for. Righty-loosey.
These are the camshaft sprocket marks. You can see how they line up with the colored links on the chains.
That's all I've got for now. I apologize for having so few pics, but hopefully this helps some people out! Thanks to everyone on this forum for giving ME, a new GTI owner, the knowledge and ability to do this work in the first place!
Thanks,
Matt
Hey guys, I just replaced my tensioner as well as the camshaft & balance shaft timing chains & guides. There's a ton of information regarding the tensioner replacement, but not a lot that goes the next bit further into replacing the chains. I am by NO means an expert, so if I make a mistake, please do correct me, but I'm putting out my experience to try to make things easier for others. Also, I know a lot of people have written better information throughout (I'll try to reference it), but if any mods want to take this post and compile it into something else, please do.
Most of the work is the same as replacing the tensioner. In addition to the tools & parts you need for that, you'll need a few extra things. Total time for me took about 3 days, but I don't have a shop or a lift, and it was my first time. The most difficult part for me was actually removing the turbo elbow, which is 3x allen screws that are super difficult to get to. I believe they are 4.5mm on the MK6. I also didn't KNOW that it's necessary, so I kept trying to work around it.
Guides to follow to take everything apart:
- Guide to replacing tensioner by ShopDap.com (This was my first resource, and easiest to follow along with).
- Erball's DIY guide to tensioner replacement
- Tony48's Timing Tensioner & chains tips
- VW Service Manual - Golf MK6 --- This is what I used once the lower timing cover was off.
- VW Service Manual - GTI 2.0 -- Use with above service manual.
Resources for the rest of it:
- Motor mount torque specs
- Guide to TSI motors (good diagrams of timing chains & gears)
- GTI / Golf R Quick Reference guide (Torques, specs, etc.)
- Another diagram of the timing components, with some torques. (note, I believe the marks on the crank are incorrect on this drawing)
Parts required:
This is not exhaustive, but don't count on every kit to give you everything you need. This is to point you in the right direction.
- GTI Timing tools kit (donut to hold crank bolt, counthold tool, camshaft locks, etc.) I used this one, and it worked perfectly on a 2010 GTI CBFA.
- A good set of ball-headed allen wrenches, flexible impact extensions, and some patience
- lower timing cover, upper timing cover, all new seals
- TTY bolts (stretch bolts)-- There are a number of motor mount bolts, all of the lower timing cover bolts, and a bolt on the exhaust camshaft that should all be replaced. Most timing kits do not include these parts
- Oil change
- Timing change kit (chains, guides, tensioners, Permatex sealant, etc.)
Personal advice / tips:
Removing the lower timing cover is a bit of a bear, mostly because of two bolts-- one behind the serpentine belt tensioner, it's not too bad. Take the belt tensioner pulley off, put bolt back on, then pull the bolt to the side with a ratchet and pop the torx out with your impact. The one that gave me hell was the torx behind the turbo elbow, the left-most screw. You will have to remove the elbow (or at least most of the bolts on it) to get to that screw. Many people apparently loosen the electrical connector bracket, remove the turbo elbow. These are all super tight spaces. I used a mini ratchet (the kind that takes screw bits), ball head allens, and flexible impact attachments, and a ton of patience to remove / reinstall those things. Someone on here may have a better technique for that.
I did not replace the oil pump chain, because I beive you have to drop the oil pan as well, and it did not sound like it is problematic. To replace the other two chains, make sure you have your motor in time before you take off anything. If you have the crankshaft dampener set to the mark, you should be good. I went ahead and zip-tied the camshaft chain together, set my camshaft locks in place (if they don't fit perfectly, you can either put a little tension on the camshaft with a wrench, or set one screw of the camshaft brace, then get a tooth to lock with the cam gear, then screw the other one in. You just need to make sure the cams don't spin.
Once those are locked, go ahead and remove your zip tie, remove the tensioner, and take the chains off. Then go ahead and remove any guides you are replacing, and reinstall according to the service manual. As far as timing, each chain has the marks on them (special colored links) that correspond to the timing marks on each gear / cog. Compare to your factory chain to see where to start them, but basically, just make sure that each colored link matches PERFECTLY to each marked gear. make sure it's perfect, install your tensioners, and then if it's all good, remove your cam locks, double check that it's all still perfectly timed, and install your new lower cover (do not re-use, it will be bent, and it will likely leak a ton of oil). Also, make sure to clean the mating surface super well. A razorblade works pretty great.
This is the turbo REMOVED, showing the torx that's hard to get to. The vacuum lines get in the way too. I had to loosen the electrical clip bracket and rotate it out of the way to get the turbo elbow off.
This is a stretch bolt, and should be replaced. I was unaware, so didn't do it, but also definitely OVER torqued it, which is not what I would strongly advise avoiding. learn from my mistakes. Note that when you take your old chain off, it most likely will NOT be lined up with the marks, due to some ratio (only lines up every 30+ rotations), but when you put the new chain on DO line up the links with the marks on the gears. Notice the new chain in the following photos lines up...
Also, because it would really suck to mess this up-- Remember there is a REVERSE threaded bolt on the intake camshaft. This is the one you need one of the special tools for. Righty-loosey.
These are the camshaft sprocket marks. You can see how they line up with the colored links on the chains.
That's all I've got for now. I apologize for having so few pics, but hopefully this helps some people out! Thanks to everyone on this forum for giving ME, a new GTI owner, the knowledge and ability to do this work in the first place!
Thanks,
Matt
What is the part number or size of this stretch bolt that goes through the camshaft bridge into the exhaust shaft? It seems that they're are 7 in total holding the bridge on. Cant seem to find it anywhere, shopdap and ecs have some hardware listed in the cam bridge section but none of them specify that they're stretch bolts. I have a mk6 with a ccta engine code.