TAZZ great writeup. Do you have a pic of the car from the front (and/or back), with the spacers installed? I'm interested in how flush with the flares it is. Similar to TEFF's?
Thx! I can tell you that in the front with 10mm spacers the flush is virtually perfect; in the back due to the camber it is just a tad less flush. Sorry I'm not much of a pic guy :/ so atm I have only these of the front; hope you get a clear picture, this is with OEM euro suspension btw (will update for you here with a pic of the back soon)
Don't mind the worker's boots and the dirty car, sorry crappy pics lol
wow this is a really good post. You did exactly what I want to do. I am at stage 1+ waiting on my bonus to continue...but i'll be adding a few less parts since i don't hve the DSG lol :thumbsup:
Very Nice write up man. I really appreciate all your efforts to go through the details you did and your honest opinion! Everything on this car seems to cost an arm and a leg.
I was thinking about getting a cat back exhaust by Magnaflow since it's half the price of ARP's exhaust and it sounds really good. I haven't done the research yet on the scorpion exhaust you have. How much is it now? I might consider it since you raved about it in your reviews and it doesn't sound like it's ricey.
Great stuff , keep us updated on any new mods. I actually read through your entire write up , super informative for first time vw owner like me.
wow this is a really good post. You did exactly what I want to do. I am at stage 1+ waiting on my bonus to continue...but i'll be adding a few less parts since i don't hve the DSG lol :thumbsup:
Very Nice write up man. I really appreciate all your efforts to go through the details you did and your honest opinion! Everything on this car seems to cost an arm and a leg.
I was thinking about getting a cat back exhaust by Magnaflow since it's half the price of ARP's exhaust and it sounds really good. I haven't done the research yet on the scorpion exhaust you have. How much is it now? I might consider it since you raved about it in your reviews and it doesn't sound like it's ricey.
Great stuff , keep us updated on any new mods. I actually read through your entire write up , super informative for first time vw owner like me.
Thx a lot guys; I'm really happy you enjoyed the read :thumbsup:. I have some interesting performance mods in the pipeline, so I will update the build soon and I will hopefully upload some decent pics without a dirty car :laugh:
Elchinophil, I got the Scorpion TBE for 800GBP after discount, shipping not included (remember I do not have a cat so my DP costs a lot less), anyway the part is listed here http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&PageNo=2&catalog=260310&cat=260310.
Concerning your exhaust choice, I have not heard any firsthand feedback on the Magnaflow, but bear in mind that 90% of the power gains come from the Downpipe and not the catback (the remaining 10% are actually unlocked by the cb only if a dp is installed as well), and if I recall well MF do not offer a DP for the Golf R. If you want to install an aftermarket exhaust you might just as well go for a full TBE.
This is a very nicely written and methodical approach to tuning. I especially like the fact that your car's appearance is almost factory (calipers hint at performance).
I can't pretend to understand the all numbers and graphs, but I'm interested in learning.
The Haldex controller is the upgrade I understand the least. I think I understand what it does, but I'm not sure how that translates as improvement for a daily driver???
My car is a stock 6 speed. I'm pretty satisfied with the out of the box performance, but a few more ponies would be nice. My biggest fear is doing upgrades that create problems that I'm not able to intelligently diagnose and that the dealer would direct blame on any upgrades.
Is there a logical performance upgrade path for HP gains?
The Haldex controller is the upgrade I understand the least. I think I understand what it does, but I'm not sure how that translates as improvement for a daily driver???
The factory haldex controller is very FWD biased for an AWD car, it's at 80/20 in normal driving. The rear wheels can receive 100% of the torque in situations where the front wheels have zero traction. The competition controller what I have fixes all of that. It keeps the bias at 50/50 all the time so all the wheels have the same amount of power like a proper AWD vehicle. It also keeps the rear wheels engaged while braking where the factory controller will disengage the rear wheels from having power when the brakes are applied. This helps as when you accelerate through a turn after braking the rear wheels will immediately have power. The car rotates a lot better too and doesn't have the understeer feeling you get from FWD vehicles.
I have no plans of tracking my vehicle and I was very skeptical if I would notice a change in day to day driving. I'm currently stage 2+ right now and I have to say that it is my favorite thing I have done to the car because of how much it changes the driving dynamics.
The only place you can get the competition controller is from HPA and it differs from everyone else's race controller that you will find out there. IMO the competition controller is the only way to go.
The factory haldex controller is very FWD biased for an AWD car, it's at 80/20 in normal driving. The rear wheels can receive 100% of the torque in situations where the front wheels have zero traction. The competition controller what I have fixes all of that. It keeps the bias at 50/50 all the time so all the wheels have the same amount of power like a proper AWD vehicle. It also keeps the rear wheels engaged while braking where the factory controller will disengage the rear wheels from having power when the brakes are applied. This helps as when you accelerate through a turn after braking the rear wheels will immediately have power. The car rotates a lot better too and doesn't have the understeer feeling you get from FWD vehicles.
I have no plans of tracking my vehicle and I was very skeptical if I would notice a change in day to day driving. I'm currently stage 2+ right now and I have to say that it is my favorite thing I have done to the car because of how much it changes the driving dynamics.
The only place you can get the competition controller is from HPA and it differs from everyone else's race controller that you will find out there. IMO the competition controller is the only way to go.
The factory haldex controller is very FWD biased for an AWD car, it's at 80/20 in normal driving. The rear wheels can receive 100% of the torque in situations where the front wheels have zero traction. The competition controller what I have fixes all of that. It keeps the bias at 50/50 all the time so all the wheels have the same amount of power like a proper AWD vehicle. It also keeps the rear wheels engaged while braking where the factory controller will disengage the rear wheels from having power when the brakes are applied. This helps as when you accelerate through a turn after braking the rear wheels will immediately have power. The car rotates a lot better too and doesn't have the understeer feeling you get from FWD vehicles.
I have no plans of tracking my vehicle and I was very skeptical if I would notice a change in day to day driving. I'm currently stage 2+ right now and I have to say that it is my favorite thing I have done to the car because of how much it changes the driving dynamics.
The only place you can get the competition controller is from HPA and it differs from everyone else's race controller that you will find out there. IMO the competition controller is the only way to go.
This is a very nicely written and methodical approach to tuning. I especially like the fact that your car's appearance is almost factory (calipers hint at performance).
I can't pretend to understand the all numbers and graphs, but I'm interested in learning.
The Haldex controller is the upgrade I understand the least. I think I understand what it does, but I'm not sure how that translates as improvement for a daily driver???
My car is a stock 6 speed. I'm pretty satisfied with the out of the box performance, but a few more ponies would be nice. My biggest fear is doing upgrades that create problems that I'm not able to intelligently diagnose and that the dealer would direct blame on any upgrades.
Is there a logical performance upgrade path for HP gains?
Thank you! My intent is indeed upgrading the car while maintaining factory-like looks; recently someone even thought that my car came factory fitted with a performance package
Well to add on kendrickphoto... Simply put; the Haldex Competition Controller improves the R as a daily driver as it virtually cancels understeer; it also makes the car feel more like a "true Quattro AWD" and less like a FWD-bias. i.e. instead of having a bulk of power at the front with the rear interfering to help, the power is distributed more evenly on the four corners. From a driver's perspective the car feels therefore much more stable in corners and the power delivery is more "enjoyable" as it pushes you rather than pulling you.
There is a logical approach to tuning an R.
You can start with an off shelf stage 1 tune from any of the reliable companies available where you live (APR, REVO, UNI, GIAC etc...), a reliable stage 1 map has never harmed an engine, and is an excellent bang for your buck. Also for a US Golf I would upgrade the suspension, either springs or coilovers, or even a OEM Euro spec suspension cause it rides like a dream and gives you a decent drop.
After that and depending on where you want to take your tune, and how, you can install typical stage 2 bolt-ons (a down pipe and an intake), At this point you should do some research first as to what fits your needs best cause bolt-ons start to have a more "dramatic" impact on your car in terms of noise, performance, fitment, and even reliability (pick carefully your intake cause yes there are a few which will cause your Mass Air Flow sensor to read crazy values).
Beyond that point, the typical upgrade is labeled stage 2+ and consists of upgrading your HPFP and flashing a stage2+ map, here again, you should do some thorough research (there is a lot of info on all the forums really). A noteworthy side effect is the accelerated wear on the cam follower, which will basically require shorter replacement intervals (nothing really complicated, but you should be aware of that).
Stage2+ can still take on quite a few extra bolt-ons ; upgraded FMIC, water-meth injection, Throttle body Pipe and Throttle outlet Pipe, sprintbooster, upgraded DV (although the stock one is just fine IMO), RS4 return valve etc... (at this stage given you have manual, you should start considering upgrading your clutch...
Finally when all this is still not enough you can take the leap to stage 3 (Big Turbo upgrade) preferably with a engine internals upgrade.
A general piece of advice I can give you is know exactly the side effects of each upgrade and chose them according to your driving needs, (some people will prefer top end power with high speed stability, others low end torque with cornering abilities etc...). Also keep in mind how much torque the manual clutch can take.
If you have specific questions let me know :thumbsup:
DeaconBlue ! whats up man. Your at stage 2+ already?! wow . I'm slacking. I need to do stage 1 . Just trying to fork over 700 bucks for a tune sucks. I want to get an exhaust so bad first then get a tune. I need to win a mini lotto .
DeaconBlue ! whats up man. Your at stage 2+ already?! wow . I'm slacking. I need to do stage 1 . Just trying to fork over 700 bucks for a tune sucks. I want to get an exhaust so bad first then get a tune. I need to win a mini lotto .
I have have read wrong that you had stage 2. I spoke to you about the garage flooring stuff a while ago where you asked me about my epoxy coating. At the time you and I both just purchased Rs a few months prior . You enjoying the depo lights so far? mine are sick ( smoked) I get alot of compliments
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