Mini7
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
- Car(s)
- 2017 GTi Sport PP
I’d better sign up to earn it.I've still got a hat with your name on it waiting for you to come back!
I’d better sign up to earn it.I've still got a hat with your name on it waiting for you to come back!
My IATs bump up as soon as I come off the gas to brake. They come back down as soon as I get to back to the throttle.Pushed a minor update today: I added vehicle speed to the general "snapshot" of every log where it was available (it scales nicely with all the temp data already displayed). Also rescaled all of the individual samples to display from 25-285 deg F.
It makes it easy to see the coolant temp increase happening partway down long straights and continuing until you let off.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/17OmZvC_tlsmpFnLV45jxSy9Ocyry3ZaX/view
Example with @Mini7
View attachment 290567
I have all of their tunes (b/c you get everything below the stage you have) so Stage 1 91/1+ 93, 2 91 and 93, 2 IS20 91 and 93, and 2+ IS38 91 and 93 (I think that's all of them!).that's interesting about their 93 being e20, helps their numbers make some sense. how many of their tunes can you see in uniconnect?
I believe they spend a huge amount of time on their 2.5T files. I get the impression they gave their simos18 work to an intern and 99.9% of people don't track their cars, so it's really hard to find good relevant info besides what I see in your logs.
This is what I was curious about, whether they're aware of what's going on. If their response is to add ethanol vs. fixing their shit, that's really lame.I have spoken to John w/Uni about it and that's where this all came from and got me sorted on what was happening/why/how to get it sorted. I have a friend who's daughter comes to the track with us with a MK7 GTI and Uni Stage 2, loves it/no issues but she isn't pushing it really hard.
I have zero interest in self-tuning using Simos Tools/dongle/OS bits
The fix is 1) flash to the 91 file or 2) run the 93 with about E20 which is what they advertise. My issue with it is that they should simply put a * there and let folks know up front that the tunes are particularly susceptible to issues on winter/lower quality fuels if you hammer on them...this avoids the forum/FB posts "Bro, I'm getting limp mode...why/help."This is what I was curious about, whether they're aware of what's going on. If their response is to add ethanol vs. fixing their shit, that's really lame.
I get the apathy towards self-tuning, I'm paying someone to tune on that stack, since the popular options for a downpipe tune are all garbage once you see how the sausage is made. UM... yikes. anyway, i'll shut up until I have actual logs to contribute here.
taking it to PMs, getting o/tThe fix is 1) flash to the 91 file or 2) run the 93 with about E20 which is what they advertise. My issue with it is that they should simply put a * there and let folks know up front that the tunes are particularly susceptible to issues on winter/lower quality fuels if you hammer on them...this avoids the forum/FB posts "Bro, I'm getting limp mode...why/help."
2) UM yikes? Are you serious? They seem to be the go-to on the wagons (at least) for anything begyond what I have so MPI/larger turbos. Many happy wagon-eers running their tunes.
In your opinion, what is a good tune? What issues are you seeing with the OTS tunes that give you concern? I get that custom is always better b/c the tune is built for your conditions which, IMHO, is mainly where the issues are i.e. fuel. If I could have a custom summer and winter tune that would be great...I mean I do...91 for winter, 93 for summer but you can certainly create custom files that were better. At some point, this is OTS life, you calbirate a car on a dyno in XYZ location with ABC fuel with a tuning philosophy you buy into and you push that out to everyone that has a variation in those two and you get some issues which ok for some, not for others but on average, most folks can run the OTS stuff safely without drama. End of my comments.
How much/frequently you are on throttle (%TPS) is directly proportional to the coolant and oil temps.I was a little slow, but still my average boost was pretty much in family with you and tigeo.
I could probably do well with a better intercooler, but my coolant and oil temps still win, so I'm not gonna mess with the stack. Don't want to break the magic
Very true, but since I'm not stock turbo my TPS is not the same as anyone else's TPS.How much/frequently you are on throttle (%TPS) is directly proportional to the coolant and oil temps.
TPS should be TPS - that's a @DerHase question though as I'm not sure on that...you are either foot on the floor/hammer down or not. W/r to boost - my tune only peaks around 21.5. Boost isn't a primary way to look at "how hard you're driving" to compare 2 cars. I'd say overall speed - what were you lap times like?Very true, but since I'm not stock turbo my TPS is not the same as anyone else's TPS.
For instance the Fastivus logs I have a lower TPS than you, by a fair bit, but actually a higher average boost.
Also, don't know how much it tweaks the data @DerHase but looks part of my cool down lap is in that data.
TPS is the throttle position, which means that takes out the equation of different pedal maps. However TPS 80% (WOT) is 21.5psi tapering to something on yours. It is 27psi flat to redline on mine. There may be times where I am only on partial throttle, but actually higher power than WOT on other cars.TPS should be TPS - that's a @DerHase question though as I'm not sure on that...you are either foot on the floor/hammer down or not. W/r to boost - my tune only peaks around 21.5. Boost isn't a primary way to look at "how hard you driving" to compare 2 cars. I'd say overall speed - what were you lap times like?
Firstly - this wasn't intended to say you were "too slow". My point here is that TPS is a proxy for RPM, foot to the floor more than someone else will have the engine at a higher RPM and generate more heat regardless of the boost values. I however understand your points - you are making more power/more boost at lower RPMs than me at WOT. You also have a manual so the DSG isn't pumping heat into the cooling system like on our cars. You also have venting which should help keep coolant temps (and oil) down a bit vs. me. There is a lot of data here so the boost question should be able to be analyzed a bit more to see how it plays in but I though @DerHase already did that?TPS is the throttle position, which means that takes out the equation of different pedal maps. However TPS 80% (WOT) is 21.5psi tapering to something on yours. It is 27psi flat to redline on mine. There may be times where I am only on partial throttle, but actually higher power than WOT on other cars.
Take that concept to an extreme, and imagine you tune a car for 0 boost. You could drive the whole course WOT most of the time and come back with really high TPS%, but negative average boost. And we would all agree that is less thermally stressing.
I actually didn't keep track of lap times, but assuming my line wasn't grossly different than yours it should be off by the same proportion as the average speed (58 mph for me and 61 mph for you). I'm not arguing that I wouldn't see higher temps if I drove harder, just saying that when looking at the data average boost needs to be considered along with TPS due to my setup. It's never gonna be apples to apples, but if you looked only at TPS it would be easy to throw my data away as "too slow to matter". I think the fact that my average boost is in the same ballpark as you and DerHase probably means I am putting a similar thermal load (due to car mods), but the lower TPS and slower average speed mean I am slower (need the driver mod).
Oh, I wasn't taking it that you or anyone else was calling me slow (I was calling me slow, but I wasn't really pushing at Fastivus)Firstly - this wasn't intended to say you were "too slow". My point here is that TPS is a proxy for RPM, foot to the floor more than someone else will have the engine at a higher RPM and generate more heat regardless of the boost values. I however understand your points - you are making more power/more boost at lower RPMs than me at WOT. You also have a manual so the DSG isn't pumping heat into the cooling system like on our cars. You also have venting which should help keep coolant temps (and oil) down a bit vs. me. There is a lot of data here so the boost question should be able to be analyzed a bit more to see how it plays in but I though @DerHase already did that?