6
Golf R Detailed Tuning Guide and Build Thread
- Thread starter TAZZ1
- Start date
22,000Km – Srpintbooster
I have been reading a lot about this Srpintbooster device; all the people who tried it loved it and most people who didn’t hated it. I wanted to find out if this really worked as reviewers claim, and purchased it from http://sprintboostersales.com/.
Install:
Installation was pretty easy, took me 12 minutes with only a Swiss knife and wiring tape. Since the instructions provided are generic to most type of cars and do not apply for the golf R specifically, I am detailing them:
1- Unlock the car and keep the door open for about 5min to avoid throwing an error code once the sensor is unplugged;
2- (Only for right hand drive cars, does not apply for UK AUS and Japan) Unscrew small plastic protection plate behind accelerator;
3- Unplug the accelerator plug (small plug just behind the pedal) by lifting up the small red lock on it then pulling out the whole plug (make sure to pull the plug not the wires);
4- Connect the sb where the plug used to, and connect back the plug to the sb (it should lock back the way it was);
5- Connect the remote button wire to the sb (this is actually optional and just to take advantage of the green-red-off functionality otherwise sb is factory set by default to red) u can always plug in the remote later to change the setting then unplug it, sb will save and keep the last selected setting;
6- Fix the remote wherever u wish using the double sided tape provided in the kit (actually depending on where u chose to install it, u might want to feed the wire before connecting the remote to the sb) i chose the tray underneath the steering wheel as a stealthy location;
7- If step 2 was required, u'll need to drill a tiny hole on the plastic cover to relocate the screw so the plate sits back without touching the plug (it’s very easy with any pointed blade)
Outcome:
As soon as I drove away, I pressed the button to the off position to see if the car behaves normally, the intent was to make sure the “physical presence” of the sprintbooster does not impair throttle response (or for example intentionally worsens throttle feel to amplify the "wow" factor when it is on). Throttle response was indeed unchanged.
After that I switched the button to Green. I immediately noticed an improvement in throttle response, the effect is more felt throughout the gears. The car felt less laggy, more snappy, and had a much more enjoyable drive feel to itThen I turned it to Red
Under WOT I felt no difference whatsoever: Sprintbooster is more an improvement for normal everyday driving under partial throttle (which is how most of us drive 90% of the time). Because of the increased sharper response, and the fact that u get more “bang for your pedal application”, u do feel the car is “faster” and more aggressive with a more pronounced urgency in the acceleration; from the driver's perspective it also greatly eliminates the presence of turbo lag. Actually I would go to the point of saying that this device does its job so well that people are fooled into thinking it has actually given them more power, while in fact it hasn’t.
Having verified the result, I will try to explain how this device works:
WRONG LOGIC - TRUE FACTS:
The sprintbooster is a crappy "power" upgrade; it will not make a car faster, it does not increase power or torque, u can do the same thing for free by applying more right foot on the accelerator...
RIGHT LOGIC - TRUE FACTS:
The sprintbooster is actually NOT a "power" upgrade and does not make a car faster. It's a drivability upgrade (same as a Haldex controller), it gives an improved, sharper throttle response which CANNOT be achieved by applying more right foot on the accelerator as doing so would defeat the purpose: from a driver's standpoint, improved throttle response means by definition having more response for less foot application (i.e. WITHOUT having to stomp more on the pedal to get such response).
Improvements actually make sense once you understand how this device works:
Most modern cars don't use a throttle cable but a drive by wire electrical system; I’m no expert, but roughly when u depress the accelerator a voltage signal is sent through the plug sitting behind your pedal to the ECU which then applies the necessary parameters to the engine depending on the intensity of the signal. The more you depress the pedal the higher the signal… Fact is the drive by wire system is not very sharp or responsive that’s why many sports cars come factory fitted with a sports button (S in the RS4 B7 and M in the BMW M5) which simply acts as an amplifier of this electrical signal.
Sprintbooster does exactly the same thing; if you depress the accelerator by say 10%, which normally equates to a certain voltage signal, it increases that signal so that the ECU receives a voltage equivalent to that of a pedal being depressed by say 25%. The ECU then applies accordingly the parameters corresponding to 25% pedal depression where the driver in fact only applied 10% on the pedal initially. On full throttle signal is the same though (100%), the sprintbooster does not exceed the throttle body limit achievable with your right foot, it just gets there faster and that is a good thing cause it won’t interfere with timing or boost or any other parameter of the engine map.
Bottom line if that makes any sense, just like a tune is a remapping of the engine parameters, a sprintbooster is a remapping of the throttle signal parameters. If you expect to gain hp look elsewhere... but if you wish to have a sharper more enjoyable, aggressive and responsive drive, I highly recommend this simple mod!
Is the sprintbooster you utilized on you mk6 R actually for the mk5 chassis R32? They haven't changed the drive by wire as far as I know, just curious cuz I tried to order it yesterday from ECS Tuning and they didn't have a part number associated to the mk6 R....the rep checked with sprintbooster's catalog and his tech's there at ecs and couldn't guarantee it would work. I plan to use the part number off the box in your pics to make an order, just wanna be sure there is no trick to the install, that it hooks right in, and where/how you figured this part number would work on your car:iono:
Thanks for the help, awesome thread, your car is on another level, definitely some love goin on :thumbsup:
Outstanding
arty0038: I love your build bro! With the few mods that I have on my 2013 R, your thread actually helps put some of the things that I want to do to mine in perspective. I have to tell you though... I have the Twin-take along with a atmospheric BOV and I don't think i'm going to get rid of the twin-take anytime soon, lol. I along with the BOV, it sounds like a dream to me... and definitely a true head-turner. I do have to ask... with all of the upgrades that you have... it sounds like your really pulling some serious horsepower... do you plan on upgrading your intercooler or what? One thing that I've noticed (and which is also obvious, lol) with any extra horses that you add... heat also becomes a factor and intercooler upgrades help keeping things under the hood in check.
arty0038: I love your build bro! With the few mods that I have on my 2013 R, your thread actually helps put some of the things that I want to do to mine in perspective. I have to tell you though... I have the Twin-take along with a atmospheric BOV and I don't think i'm going to get rid of the twin-take anytime soon, lol. I along with the BOV, it sounds like a dream to me... and definitely a true head-turner. I do have to ask... with all of the upgrades that you have... it sounds like your really pulling some serious horsepower... do you plan on upgrading your intercooler or what? One thing that I've noticed (and which is also obvious, lol) with any extra horses that you add... heat also becomes a factor and intercooler upgrades help keeping things under the hood in check.
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
Thank u
happy that u found it useful!I hear u; heat becomes a more serious factor with the added ponies, i still haven't pulled the trigger on an upgraded IC though. I recently drove my tuner's stg2+ R with a CTS IC, and while i really felt the added power from lower iat, i found throttle response a bit lax and laggy. I like my DD to feel extremely snappy off the line, and i've oriented my setup to that end; my tuner even tells me that below 3000rpms my turbo spools so quick it feels as if its a ko3 lol. I think water meth should be interesting for me ... the kit is sitting in my garage... For the moment
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
Thx man
sorry i missed your post earlier. The mk5 and mk6 use the same dbw and have the same sprintbooster unit, so u can order the mk5 gti unit from ecs. Be careful not to order my part number as it is for DSG cars, for manual cars part number is SPR2176 (without the 'A'). Only "trick" in the install is keeping your driver door open for about 10 minutes before u unplug the dbw plug just to make sure the ecu doesnt throw a fault. I'm sure u'll love it:thumbsup:
r15maniac
Go Kart Champion
19,000Km – APR Carbonio
Obviously I was not very happy back with the OEM intake, but was still recovering from my Twintake experiment, so I decided to play it “safe” and try out the APR Carbonio as it retained the factory MAF housing. Now I had read around that the Carbonio did not make any difference, so again my expectations were very low.
Install:
Installation was fairly easy given I got used to removing the engine cover. Instructions provided are clear. Visually the whole system looks pretty clean and neat. Also compared to stock the snorkel is much less restrictive and shoots all the air in the airbox as opposed to the OEM one which shoots part of it into the engine bay. I also tried to “optimize” the Carbonio by applying some DEI gold heat reflector tape.
(sorry that last pic is actually more recent than the time of install)
Outcome:
After driving the car, I quickly saw the difference with both stock and the Twintake;
In terms of top end power gains the Carbonio cannot compare to the Forge Twintake, that I already knew and can confirm. It did however offer a better every day drivability due to having stronger torque in the low revs which is of course a plus. Also the Carbonio is much quieter than the Twintake and it suits me better since I am not a big fan of loud noises in a daily driver.
Compared to the OEM intake, it had an uncompromised low-end and I did feel the power delivery more linear with a slight improvement up top. Since that contradicted most reviews, I logged MAF readings (MB 002), and Fuel trims (MB 032) in several runs to make sure this is not a placebo effect. Below are the results (3rd and 4th gear runs in near identical conditions);
OEM:
002: Peak MAF between 238.x g/s ~ 240.x g/s
032: Long fuel trim +1.4%, Short fuel trim -3.0%
Carbonio:
002: Peak MAF between 244.x g/s ~ 247.x g/s
032: Long fuel trim +1.4%, Short fuel trim +0.8%
.
No placebo effect here, the kit works just fine with an increase of 6 to 9 g/s and a good jump in the fuel trims as well
In conclusion while the APR Carbonio is not a true CAI, it is an improvement and upgrade on the OEM intake which I am pretty satisfied with.
I followed your example and just added the same DEI tape to my airbox and Carbonio(already had it). Hopefully this will deflect some heat from the intake temp. :thumbsup:
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
I am no expert but I guess one should always leave space for heat to dissipate as well; that is why I have only insulated the bottom part of the snorkel and kept the top open. My main concern in doing this mod was a portion of the snorkel being very close to hot coolant pipes. I haven't done any measurements but doubt there would be a significant effect on IAT since I believe these are measured post turbo (where anyway they get hellish hot!). A FMIC and/or WM kit will drop IATs for sure.
Still no time to install that Snow performance kit
nice car. i like the brakes.
Thx! one of my favorites parts on the car to date
that's weird about the superchips not being effective on the R. my 2nd cousin (graham) owns superchips and i've saw nothing but great numbers on this platform from what hes showed me
I know, and I had chosen superchips based on similar good feedback :iono: Their local rep and HQ customer service were really good though...
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
50.000Km – RS4 HPRV
After a layoff period I finally got some time (and cash) to spare on the car, and since I noticed that my rail fuel pressure maxes out at 128- 129 bar with an occasional 130 spike, I decided to give the RS4 High Pressure Return Valve a try. For reference this used to be my fuel rail log:
For the less-mechanically inclined our rail fuel system comes factory calibrated at 110 bar max, stage 2+ means upgrading your HPFP and software to run higher pressure (typically around 130 bar). The Fuel rail also has a pressure relief valve, that is calibrated to bleed off pressure around 128-129 bar (hence my maxed out figures). The RS4 valve looks identical to the R valve on the outside, both are OEM items, but the former is rated to bleed off pressure around 136 bar instead (presumably to cope with the higher fuel demand of the V8 RS4). This has been a popular mod for guys running GIAC setups that specifically cater for the uprated valve, but even without software many have found the RS4 HPRV to yield extra fuel pressure in the upper range (more fuel = potential for more powa), time to find out.
This is the R valve (bottom) along with the RS4 valve (top) showing part number, pic is from the internet:
Install:
Looking at how small the thing is, and how it’s meant to just plug-in to replace the identical factory valve you’d be inclined to think well, how complicated it can be… you’re wrong : Installing the item was a total PITA. It’s the heart surgery of bolt-on modifications. Depending on the method you chose you would need customized tools to access the return valve, and in all cases have it done by a specialist… and if you’re the faint hearted type, look away while he’s doing it.
This is where it sits in the fuel system of the RS4 to give you an idea:
Typically people install the valve by removing the intake manifold, (not something I am comfortable with), some with lots of experience, planning, and access to customized tools have done it by “just” removing the throttle body, (not easy either)… But my dear trusted specialist has decided to do it without lifting the car, by striking the beast in the heart and went through the it-came-down-to-this-method of de-installing the fuel rail itself!!
So yes, he had to go through removing the HPFP, and then unscrew the metallic fuel lines of the fuel rail system, and still it wasn’t that easy…. I don’t remember the rest, must have fainted with thoughts of horror stories involving a blown engine and fire everywhere lol, so I really apologize but I have no details as to the installation steps as I normally would, and this is not the most detailed write-up I ever made…
All I can say is that as with any work performed in the fuel system you need to take account of the pressure already in the system which will cause some fuel to spill, apply standard precaution measures. Also after install is done, you need to “prime” the pump to relieve the fuel system from any air, a couple of ignition switches without turning on the engine will do.
Outcome:
First the car is running fine, all is back in place so that’s that already. I run the car and watch my fuel rail pressure through the POLAR FIS+ and after a few 3rd gear WOT runs the following conclusions became clear:
1- My system now maxes out between 132-134 bar with an occasional spike of 136 bar. TBH I was a bit surprised given that my software maxes requested pressure at 129.99 bar. The increase is clear and consistent in the high 5.000 rpms and above.
2- There is less “fluctuation” in the readings, and the numbers I read are more constant higher in the rev range. Before the RS4 valve I would normally see any given pressure number for about a fraction of second, now the same number remains unchanged for quite longer. Remember I have the POLAR FIS + installed so it’s fairly easy for me to compare in real time.
Sorry I’ve got no data logs ATM.
Did I feel that I gained 20hp, surely not, but the idea of knowing and seeing that my car gets its required load of fuel, vs. being just short of it before, is quite satisfying for someone who wants to calibrate his car to the best extent possible. With the RS4 HPRV my car certainly runs slightly better than without, and that is sufficient for me to go through the hassle of installing it.
That said, given the results I think this is a must-do upgrade for anyone contemplating a big turbo upgrade with upgraded wastegate actuator at a later stage.
After a layoff period I finally got some time (and cash) to spare on the car, and since I noticed that my rail fuel pressure maxes out at 128- 129 bar with an occasional 130 spike, I decided to give the RS4 High Pressure Return Valve a try. For reference this used to be my fuel rail log:
For the less-mechanically inclined our rail fuel system comes factory calibrated at 110 bar max, stage 2+ means upgrading your HPFP and software to run higher pressure (typically around 130 bar). The Fuel rail also has a pressure relief valve, that is calibrated to bleed off pressure around 128-129 bar (hence my maxed out figures). The RS4 valve looks identical to the R valve on the outside, both are OEM items, but the former is rated to bleed off pressure around 136 bar instead (presumably to cope with the higher fuel demand of the V8 RS4). This has been a popular mod for guys running GIAC setups that specifically cater for the uprated valve, but even without software many have found the RS4 HPRV to yield extra fuel pressure in the upper range (more fuel = potential for more powa
), time to find out. This is the R valve (bottom) along with the RS4 valve (top) showing part number, pic is from the internet:
Install:
Looking at how small the thing is, and how it’s meant to just plug-in to replace the identical factory valve you’d be inclined to think well, how complicated it can be… you’re wrong : Installing the item was a total PITA. It’s the heart surgery of bolt-on modifications. Depending on the method you chose you would need customized tools to access the return valve, and in all cases have it done by a specialist… and if you’re the faint hearted type, look away while he’s doing it.
This is where it sits in the fuel system of the RS4 to give you an idea:
Typically people install the valve by removing the intake manifold, (not something I am comfortable with), some with lots of experience, planning, and access to customized tools have done it by “just” removing the throttle body, (not easy either)… But my dear trusted specialist has decided to do it without lifting the car, by striking the beast in the heart and went through the it-came-down-to-this-method of de-installing the fuel rail itself!!
So yes, he had to go through removing the HPFP, and then unscrew the metallic fuel lines of the fuel rail system, and still it wasn’t that easy…. I don’t remember the rest, must have fainted with thoughts of horror stories involving a blown engine and fire everywhere lol, so I really apologize but I have no details as to the installation steps as I normally would, and this is not the most detailed write-up I ever made…
All I can say is that as with any work performed in the fuel system you need to take account of the pressure already in the system which will cause some fuel to spill, apply standard precaution measures. Also after install is done, you need to “prime” the pump to relieve the fuel system from any air, a couple of ignition switches without turning on the engine will do.
Outcome:
First the car is running fine, all is back in place so that’s that already. I run the car and watch my fuel rail pressure through the POLAR FIS+ and after a few 3rd gear WOT runs the following conclusions became clear:
1- My system now maxes out between 132-134 bar with an occasional spike of 136 bar. TBH I was a bit surprised given that my software maxes requested pressure at 129.99 bar. The increase is clear and consistent in the high 5.000 rpms and above.
2- There is less “fluctuation” in the readings, and the numbers I read are more constant higher in the rev range. Before the RS4 valve I would normally see any given pressure number for about a fraction of second, now the same number remains unchanged for quite longer. Remember I have the POLAR FIS + installed so it’s fairly easy for me to compare in real time.
Sorry I’ve got no data logs ATM.
Did I feel that I gained 20hp, surely not, but the idea of knowing and seeing that my car gets its required load of fuel, vs. being just short of it before, is quite satisfying for someone who wants to calibrate his car to the best extent possible. With the RS4 HPRV my car certainly runs slightly better than without, and that is sufficient for me to go through the hassle of installing it.
That said, given the results I think this is a must-do upgrade for anyone contemplating a big turbo upgrade with upgraded wastegate actuator at a later stage.
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
52,000Km – GFB DV+
With the level of boost my car is running at stage 2+ I’ve been on the lookout for an aftermarket recirculation DV. Of course I considered at first the popular DV choices like the Forge or the Evoms. After doing some research however, it seemed that while all aftermarket DVs hold boost better than an OEM application, they sacrifice response and are slower to react. When I also got to drive my friend’s Golf R equipped with a Forge DV it became apparent that whenever I slightly lift-off and re-apply throttle there is a fractional pause until the boost comes back on; which is not the case with my OEM rev D. This is not a “flaw” of mechanical DVs but rather a characteristic of their mode of operation; as mechanical units vacuum operated with more components and hoses it is only normal that they take a bit more time to be pressurized to open and shut than an electronic application that reacts instantaneously to the ECU signal. I know it is often the case in tuning, but I’ve tried so far to avoid as much as possible having to compromise on “good” OEM functions, so the slower response won’t do it for me.
Then I came across a couple of reviews about the DV+ from GFB which caught my attention as it seemed like an interesting solution. But I had been also reading about this unit leaking and still needing some R&D for KO4 equipped cars, also that some users were experiencing fluttering issues etc…, so I shot GFB an e-mail to see if they had come-up with a definitive solution. I must say I was quite impressed with the quick reply of Brett @ GFB who confirmed that the KO4 DV+ was released and all leaking issues were addressed. He took the time to meticulously explain in thorough detail what was the issue and exactly how the DV+ works, thumbs-up for his top-notch customer service! :clap:
In brief, according to GFB the journal DV found in the GTI shuts pretty tight and does not leak, but with higher boost it will definitely crack. The Rev D piston DV found on the Golf R is indestructible it is however prone to leak by design. The DV+ replaces the “bad” part of the OEM DV and keeps the good by upgrading the factory piston, plunger and plunger spring with much stronger better designed components but maintaining the factory electronic-operated solenoid, also as an optional plus it comes with an additional large piston spring that can be installed between the reinforced plunger and the reinforced piston. At worst, WITHOUT installing that additional piston spring this results in boost holding capacity and durability similar to what aftermarket mechanical DVs offer, while at the same time offering the same quick response of the OEM electronic operated solenoid; so at worst you’ve got the best of both worlds… At best however, if you do chose to install the additional spring, it allows the DV to partially open venting just the right amount of air to prevent compressor surge while still maintaining boost pressure simply by reacting to BOTH the ECU command and the actual boost in the system, unlike the OEM valve that reacts solely to the ECU command by either completely opening or completely shutting. The result is actually an IMPROVEMENT of the already quick OEM response on top of the boost holding capacity and durability advantages of mechanical aftermarket DVs.
Brett also explained that the fluttering issues people were sometimes complaining about was much more a harmless “side-effect” resulting from the operation of the additional spring rather than an “issue”, and that on most cars it does not even occur. I was sold.
When I received the kit, I was not so surprised to see the tremendous quality of all its components, like all aftermarket DVs, and simply because they are compatible with such a large range of applications over several generations of model years the manufacturers will go through the expense of applying proper R&D and invest in the manufacturing process cause it’s worth it. Packaging is also impeccable with each component individually housed in protective foam and clear color-printed instructions.
Install:
Easy as pie;
1- Unplug the OEM DV plug;
2- Unscrew the three screws holding the rev d DV onto the recirculation pipe (depending on your intake setup you might want to unscrew that fourth screw holding the recirculation pipe in place, it makes things easier;
3- Pull-out firmly the piston on the rev d, it will just pop out without a fuss along with the silver OEM plunger revealing the white OEM solenoid and the flimsy OEM plunger spring;
4- Remove the OEM plunger spring;
At this stage you’d have removed all OEM components you don’t need (keep the yellow O-Ring);
5- Slip on the upgraded plunger spring, then the black plunger that comes with the DV+, then top it off with the anodized billet DV+ body there’s a marker to indicate the exact orientation, it comes with a black O-ring already fitted make sure it is there, and hold the entire assembly together;
6- If you want to fully benefit from the DV+, install the optional large piston spring, if not skip this step;
7- Apply a little engine oil on the sidewalls of the piston and slide it in its housing on the billet body;
8- Introduce the whole assembly by carefully holding it together into the recirculation pipe housing make sure the plug housing remains on its original orientation;
9- Screw-in the new longer bolts supplied with the DV+ kit until lock-up; you will notice the whole assembly joints will be bonded flush tight… and voila.
Of course I chose to install the piston spring, it would be stupid not to try it out at least, then worst case remove it if it causes any unbearable fluttering noise.
Outcome:
I immediately felt a noticeable improvement in the initial spool-up of the car. Picking up any gear and accelerating from down low feels much better, merely feathering the throttle gives as much grunt as a good decent stomp on the pedal normally would. You can really feel the urgency building up sooner in the revs and on throttle application. The best I can describe it is as if the boost was “pre-charged” if it makes any sense. Somehow it feels like the turbo spool threshold has diminished! This is more noticeable on partial throttle/lift-off. I was particularly relieved to notice no fluttering or other side-effect at all in fact the DV+ does not sound any different than the OEM rev d.
In the higher revs and in the mid-range, I really feel the car pushing harder, the torque feels less peaky and more flat. The Polar FIS confirms that the peak boost is held over broader revs, and on gear shifts (remember my car is DSG) there is a kick in the butt feeling that thrusts the car forward every time I shift. It seems my OEM DV was a bit leaking.
Bottom line it has made both the daily and spirited drives much more enjoyable, I am super happy with it and highly recommend it!
With the level of boost my car is running at stage 2+ I’ve been on the lookout for an aftermarket recirculation DV. Of course I considered at first the popular DV choices like the Forge or the Evoms. After doing some research however, it seemed that while all aftermarket DVs hold boost better than an OEM application, they sacrifice response and are slower to react. When I also got to drive my friend’s Golf R equipped with a Forge DV it became apparent that whenever I slightly lift-off and re-apply throttle there is a fractional pause until the boost comes back on; which is not the case with my OEM rev D. This is not a “flaw” of mechanical DVs but rather a characteristic of their mode of operation; as mechanical units vacuum operated with more components and hoses it is only normal that they take a bit more time to be pressurized to open and shut than an electronic application that reacts instantaneously to the ECU signal. I know it is often the case in tuning, but I’ve tried so far to avoid as much as possible having to compromise on “good” OEM functions, so the slower response won’t do it for me.
Then I came across a couple of reviews about the DV+ from GFB which caught my attention as it seemed like an interesting solution. But I had been also reading about this unit leaking and still needing some R&D for KO4 equipped cars, also that some users were experiencing fluttering issues etc…, so I shot GFB an e-mail to see if they had come-up with a definitive solution. I must say I was quite impressed with the quick reply of Brett @ GFB who confirmed that the KO4 DV+ was released and all leaking issues were addressed. He took the time to meticulously explain in thorough detail what was the issue and exactly how the DV+ works, thumbs-up for his top-notch customer service! :clap:
In brief, according to GFB the journal DV found in the GTI shuts pretty tight and does not leak, but with higher boost it will definitely crack. The Rev D piston DV found on the Golf R is indestructible it is however prone to leak by design. The DV+ replaces the “bad” part of the OEM DV and keeps the good by upgrading the factory piston, plunger and plunger spring with much stronger better designed components but maintaining the factory electronic-operated solenoid, also as an optional plus it comes with an additional large piston spring that can be installed between the reinforced plunger and the reinforced piston. At worst, WITHOUT installing that additional piston spring this results in boost holding capacity and durability similar to what aftermarket mechanical DVs offer, while at the same time offering the same quick response of the OEM electronic operated solenoid; so at worst you’ve got the best of both worlds
… At best however, if you do chose to install the additional spring, it allows the DV to partially open venting just the right amount of air to prevent compressor surge while still maintaining boost pressure simply by reacting to BOTH the ECU command and the actual boost in the system, unlike the OEM valve that reacts solely to the ECU command by either completely opening or completely shutting. The result is actually an IMPROVEMENT of the already quick OEM response on top of the boost holding capacity and durability advantages of mechanical aftermarket DVs. Brett also explained that the fluttering issues people were sometimes complaining about was much more a harmless “side-effect” resulting from the operation of the additional spring rather than an “issue”, and that on most cars it does not even occur. I was sold.
When I received the kit, I was not so surprised to see the tremendous quality of all its components, like all aftermarket DVs, and simply because they are compatible with such a large range of applications over several generations of model years the manufacturers will go through the expense of applying proper R&D and invest in the manufacturing process cause it’s worth it. Packaging is also impeccable with each component individually housed in protective foam and clear color-printed instructions.
Install:
Easy as pie;
1- Unplug the OEM DV plug;
2- Unscrew the three screws holding the rev d DV onto the recirculation pipe (depending on your intake setup you might want to unscrew that fourth screw holding the recirculation pipe in place, it makes things easier;
3- Pull-out firmly the piston on the rev d, it will just pop out without a fuss along with the silver OEM plunger revealing the white OEM solenoid and the flimsy OEM plunger spring;
4- Remove the OEM plunger spring;
At this stage you’d have removed all OEM components you don’t need (keep the yellow O-Ring);
5- Slip on the upgraded plunger spring, then the black plunger that comes with the DV+, then top it off with the anodized billet DV+ body there’s a marker to indicate the exact orientation, it comes with a black O-ring already fitted make sure it is there, and hold the entire assembly together;
6- If you want to fully benefit from the DV+, install the optional large piston spring, if not skip this step;
7- Apply a little engine oil on the sidewalls of the piston and slide it in its housing on the billet body;
8- Introduce the whole assembly by carefully holding it together into the recirculation pipe housing make sure the plug housing remains on its original orientation;
9- Screw-in the new longer bolts supplied with the DV+ kit until lock-up; you will notice the whole assembly joints will be bonded flush tight… and voila.
Of course I chose to install the piston spring, it would be stupid not to try it out at least, then worst case remove it if it causes any unbearable fluttering noise.
Outcome:
I immediately felt a noticeable improvement in the initial spool-up of the car. Picking up any gear and accelerating from down low feels much better, merely feathering the throttle gives as much grunt as a good decent stomp on the pedal normally would
. You can really feel the urgency building up sooner in the revs and on throttle application. The best I can describe it is as if the boost was “pre-charged” if it makes any sense. Somehow it feels like the turbo spool threshold has diminished! This is more noticeable on partial throttle/lift-off. I was particularly relieved to notice no fluttering or other side-effect at all in fact the DV+ does not sound any different than the OEM rev d.In the higher revs and in the mid-range, I really feel the car pushing harder, the torque feels less peaky and more flat. The Polar FIS confirms that the peak boost is held over broader revs, and on gear shifts (remember my car is DSG) there is a kick in the butt feeling that thrusts the car forward every time I shift. It seems my OEM DV was a bit leaking.
Bottom line it has made both the daily and spirited drives much more enjoyable, I am super happy with it and highly recommend it!
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dustinouch
Go Kart Champion
Great thread, really like the DEI tape and Sprint Booster posts. I really like those little details. Any updates?
TAZZ1
Ready to race!
55.000Km - Driver Motorsport Tune
After more than 3.5 years of happy ownership you can get accustomed to the power of your car, so I’ve been looking for ways to regain that “wow” effect.
Since I had sort of maximized the power on my current setup I initially thought that my only option was to go for hardware upgrades. Then I came across many threads here and there that were claiming power gains just from switching their tunes to a company called DRIVER MOTORSPORT.
When it turned out DM had made its way to our side of the pond and that the dealer happened to be a friend, I decided to give it a try.
Let me first say that I’ve been very happy with the way my car ran, and like I already mentioned in this thread Upsolute had done a really good job. Even on my way to the DM dealer I was having second thoughts and I would’ve never tried switching if I did not have the possibility to revert back to my long-lived and proven tune.
Long story short I had my car switched to stock tune :yikes:, purchased the DM programmer, and shot Bronson@DM an e-mail giving details as to what hardware was on the car and my daily commute preferences. After I drove away (on stock tune)… I gave the car a WOT run… and from that placid instant, I did not rev the car past 3000rpms to avoid mental depression… lol. Couple of days later I receive the DM stage2+ file supposedly “customized” for my setup. Took 20 minutes to upload via the programmer with clear onscreen instructions, no fuss. The DM programmer can store up to 3 tunes (stock plus two) and allows to switch programs via the OBDII port which is convenient.
Although my expectations were quite low, I must admit that I immediately felt a difference. I hate to say this…. But what an improvement! I was really surprised that my car could actually improve that much over an otherwise pretty good tune! Actually the whole power delivery felt very different, much more linear in the spool-up zone with less drama but more thrust, and past 4000rpms it was MUCH more aggressive pulling like a freight train with steady uncorrected urgency till redline.
I think the difference is more felt in the “average hp” throughout the revs more that in peak figures, altough there's definitely a gain in peak hp as well. Butt dyno could easily tell that the car picked quite some ponies in the mid-range and top-end over the previous tune… so much that there was no need for an actual Dyno. But given the outcome I was just curious to actually read the result on a graph, so we hooked the car up and below came the result:
326.2 awhp and a whopping 356.9 awtq, as measured on a Dynocom AWD dyno, on a 72F (23Celsius) warm day:thumbup: :thumbup: that’s as close as it can get to DM’s own advertised 323whp! And very much in line and/or higher than all the major tuners’ advertised claims (not bashing, just saying). I'm especially happy with how similar my curve looks to the one advertised on the DM official website, which roughly means that things are running the way they should
Bronson posted my results on here.
This result shows that high numbers ARE achievable with a stock MAF housing / Airbox, although I am sure that with a true ram CAI I can straighten a bit that power curve in the 5K to 6K area which drops in a more pronounced way.
What's better the polar FIS showed that my file had indeed been customized to take full advantage of the RS4 HPRV as I was seeing fuel rail pressure north of 136bar This of course means a bit faster wear on the cam follower, so I’ll just have to decrease my cam service interval a bit, not a problem.
To top it off and most importantly my timing retard CF was reading steady 0s on all cylinders, with maybe a very occasional -1.x that would show up for a fraction of a sec at redline shifting (remember I am DSG) or on initial throttle.
Bottom line, I came from a very good tune and company with whom I was very satisfied, and ended-up with an even better-er one, didn’t know this sort of thing could happen lol... thumbs up and huge thanks to DM and especially Bronson for an amazing job :clap:
Anyone considering DM but hesitating to pull the trigger is wasting precious time!
After more than 3.5 years of happy ownership you can get accustomed to the power of your car, so I’ve been looking for ways to regain that “wow” effect.
Since I had sort of maximized the power on my current setup I initially thought that my only option was to go for hardware upgrades. Then I came across many threads here and there that were claiming power gains just from switching their tunes to a company called DRIVER MOTORSPORT.
When it turned out DM had made its way to our side of the pond and that the dealer happened to be a friend, I decided to give it a try.
Let me first say that I’ve been very happy with the way my car ran, and like I already mentioned in this thread Upsolute had done a really good job. Even on my way to the DM dealer I was having second thoughts and I would’ve never tried switching if I did not have the possibility to revert back to my long-lived and proven tune.
Long story short I had my car switched to stock tune :yikes:, purchased the DM programmer, and shot Bronson@DM an e-mail giving details as to what hardware was on the car and my daily commute preferences. After I drove away (on stock tune)… I gave the car a WOT run… and from that placid instant, I did not rev the car past 3000rpms to avoid mental depression… lol. Couple of days later I receive the DM stage2+ file supposedly “customized” for my setup. Took 20 minutes to upload via the programmer with clear onscreen instructions, no fuss. The DM programmer can store up to 3 tunes (stock plus two) and allows to switch programs via the OBDII port which is convenient.
Although my expectations were quite low, I must admit that I immediately felt a difference. I hate to say this…. But what an improvement! I was really surprised that my car could actually improve that much over an otherwise pretty good tune! Actually the whole power delivery felt very different, much more linear in the spool-up zone with less drama but more thrust, and past 4000rpms it was MUCH more aggressive pulling like a freight train with steady uncorrected urgency till redline.
I think the difference is more felt in the “average hp” throughout the revs more that in peak figures, altough there's definitely a gain in peak hp as well. Butt dyno could easily tell that the car picked quite some ponies in the mid-range and top-end over the previous tune… so much that there was no need for an actual Dyno. But given the outcome I was just curious to actually read the result on a graph, so we hooked the car up and below came the result:
326.2 awhp and a whopping 356.9 awtq, as measured on a Dynocom AWD dyno, on a 72F (23Celsius) warm day:thumbup: :thumbup: that’s as close as it can get to DM’s own advertised 323whp! And very much in line and/or higher than all the major tuners’ advertised claims (not bashing, just saying). I'm especially happy with how similar my curve looks to the one advertised on the DM official website, which roughly means that things are running the way they should
Bronson posted my results on here.
This result shows that high numbers ARE achievable with a stock MAF housing / Airbox, although I am sure that with a true ram CAI I can straighten a bit that power curve in the 5K to 6K area which drops in a more pronounced way.
What's better the polar FIS showed that my file had indeed been customized to take full advantage of the RS4 HPRV as I was seeing fuel rail pressure north of 136bar
This of course means a bit faster wear on the cam follower, so I’ll just have to decrease my cam service interval a bit, not a problem. To top it off and most importantly my timing retard CF was reading steady 0s on all cylinders, with maybe a very occasional -1.x that would show up for a fraction of a sec at redline shifting (remember I am DSG) or on initial throttle.
Bottom line, I came from a very good tune and company with whom I was very satisfied, and ended-up with an even better-er one, didn’t know this sort of thing could happen lol... thumbs up and huge thanks to DM and especially Bronson for an amazing job :clap:
Anyone considering DM but hesitating to pull the trigger is wasting precious time!
Attachments
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Dyno.JPG
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