Carbon Blir
Ready to race!
Is there an engine break in? If so what is it. I have read a lot about it in general but I figured the VW people like you would know the best... I have a brand new 2010 GTI
6
Engine break in
- Thread starter Carbon Blir
- Start date
absoluteczech
GolfMKV ADMlN
its in the manual
woofie2
Ready to race!
Break-in for a TDI-
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501
Translated for a gas powered GTI-
Rules that apply for the life of the car
-When the engine is cold (below the first 3 white marks at the base of the temp gage) rev the engine to at least 3,800 rpms.
-When the engine is warmed up (above the first three white marks) Rev the engine to no less than 4,000 rpms.
The reason for this is to keep the turbo on boost, clear the VNT guide vanes and apply firm pressure to the rings for optimal sealing against blow-by gasses. The rings need the boost to seal since its a turbo charged engine, babying the engine is detrimental and will lead to issues with compression if done so for very long.
-Keep rpms as close to 3000 rpm as possible when driving at a steady speed.
-Allow the DSG or automatic transmission to determine the optimal gear and engine rpm. It knows better than you... Provided you have it trained to be biased to the sport mode the engines shift points will occur at the ideal ranges.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=252501
Translated for a gas powered GTI-
Rules that apply for the life of the car
-When the engine is cold (below the first 3 white marks at the base of the temp gage) rev the engine to at least 3,800 rpms.
-When the engine is warmed up (above the first three white marks) Rev the engine to no less than 4,000 rpms.
The reason for this is to keep the turbo on boost, clear the VNT guide vanes and apply firm pressure to the rings for optimal sealing against blow-by gasses. The rings need the boost to seal since its a turbo charged engine, babying the engine is detrimental and will lead to issues with compression if done so for very long.
-Keep rpms as close to 3000 rpm as possible when driving at a steady speed.
-Allow the DSG or automatic transmission to determine the optimal gear and engine rpm. It knows better than you... Provided you have it trained to be biased to the sport mode the engines shift points will occur at the ideal ranges.
assumed that 3000 RPM's is where the turbo starts coming online, and adjusted percentages to approximate numbers for a Gas powered motor.Drivbiwire said:
Don't attempt a 'translation' - diesel engines have rather different tolerences and fundamentals than a gas engine. Read the manual.
woofie2
Ready to race!
the basic principals are very similar, a Gas motor has lower compression but not running it at a steady state and not wailing on the motor before it is warmed up properly goes for any motor.
I changed the RPM ranges to more closely match a the Gas motor's RPM range,
Every motor I have seen can be damaged by driving too hard, but the cost is almost just as bad if not worse when driving it too easy.
My Aunt's cars have had more problems with carbon and various afflictions from driving too easy.
My sister's cars have had problems from driving with both feet all the time.
While I am a spirited driver, I do not push the car beyond 95% most of the time.
DawnsKayBug1
Go Kart Champion
I read "Somewhere" the break in wasnt as critical anymore due to the tight tolerances and advancements in Engine technology.
jgs5607
Ready to race!
It is not as critical as it used to be, but the earliest miles are important on a turbocharged motor. (The manual says to take it easy until 1000 miles)
The cylinder pressures tend to be higher, so you really want to let the rings seat. I just passed 1000 mi and am now taking it to 6000 rpm, but I am still minimizing using full throttle to get there. I can tell that the motor is not as tight as it was when new, it seem to rev easier even at lower RPM's.
The cylinder pressures tend to be higher, so you really want to let the rings seat. I just passed 1000 mi and am now taking it to 6000 rpm, but I am still minimizing using full throttle to get there. I can tell that the motor is not as tight as it was when new, it seem to rev easier even at lower RPM's.
Mk6golfer
Ready to race!
I'm seeing a general trend here:
- gradually increase your max revs while accelerating/rowing gears (up to 1k miles, ie no redlining until 1k miles)
- vary your rpms while driving, up to 1k miles (ie no cruise control)
- DO NOT change oil until 10k miles per the manual
Essentially that?
- gradually increase your max revs while accelerating/rowing gears (up to 1k miles, ie no redlining until 1k miles)
- vary your rpms while driving, up to 1k miles (ie no cruise control)
- DO NOT change oil until 10k miles per the manual
Essentially that?
Carbon Blir
Ready to race!
that sunds good to me from everything i read
roastpuff
Go Kart Champion
I'll agree with the first two points, but not the third.
I don't really feel comfortable with not changing my oil until 10k miles, as detailed in this thread. This is especially because I plan to autocross the car in January/February, and leaving the break-in oil with all the particles loosened during break-in makes me shudder.
I will most likely change my own oil at 1500-2000kms and then take it in for regular dealer servicing at 8000km intervals, as recommended by my dealer. I'm thinking of buying this kit from DBC, which seems to be a very good deal, and I hear a lot of good about the Lubro-Moly oil on MkV.
I don't really feel comfortable with not changing my oil until 10k miles, as detailed in this thread. This is especially because I plan to autocross the car in January/February, and leaving the break-in oil with all the particles loosened during break-in makes me shudder.
I will most likely change my own oil at 1500-2000kms and then take it in for regular dealer servicing at 8000km intervals, as recommended by my dealer. I'm thinking of buying this kit from DBC, which seems to be a very good deal, and I hear a lot of good about the Lubro-Moly oil on MkV.
My car was at the dealer yesterday for the 90 day service check. Asked the service advisor about the 10k oil change. He highly suggested 5k between changes including the first. There is always the possibility that they want to make money from more frequent oil changes, but 10k sounds like a lot of miles between oil changes on a car that I own vs. a car that I lease.
Lots of chatter on this topic and opinions vary greatly. So who the phuck knows at this stage. I guess whatever you're comfortable with.
$79 for an oil change is BMW prices. I was definitely a bit put off by the pricing.
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