Perfect place for my .45 magnum.
The load/weight rating on each of these drawers is 1.5kg.
Cool...Just be really careful using the T-50 for the seat rail bolts. Those things are such a pain to get out if you strip them. And make sure you re-torque them after a while, as they do sometimes get loose and make your seat rattle...
The seat bolts originally loosened up very easily using my T50 Torx bit. The bit fit in the bolts was a little loose, but the bolts just weren't tight enough for that to be an issue. There is carpet/padding under the seat runners and I think that after they torque the bolts at the factory, the carpet/padding probably relaxes a bit over time, lessening the torque on the bolts to a loose-fitting-T50-Torx-bit-managable
loosening value. However, the tightening torque spec on the seat bolts is 40Nm or 29.5ft/lb. When I had finished the drawer installation, I then foolishly tried to re-torque the first two bolts using my loose-fitting T50 Torx bit...and they did slip/strip. Now I have ordered an actual Triple Square bit set and will replace the two bolts that I was foolish enough to booger up. After screwing up my bolts I noticed a similar thread on another forum where someone suggested, as an alternate to the correct 10mm triple square bit, a 5/16 Allen (hex) bit. My bolts were stripped badly enough that my new triple square bit wouldn't even
start to fit into the patterns in the heads of them. So, I tried that 5/16 Allen bit. It
did drop into the bolt head pattern slightly, so I gently tapped it the rest of the way in with a hammer. It was then tight enough to allow me to remove the stripped bolts. Whew! I am now a
re-confirmed "use-the-correct-tool" kind of guy.
And speaking of the right tool, I finally found my pop rivet gun, so I went back and installed the pop-riveted brackets as well. I now have five fastening points on each drawer frame instead of three or four. It hasn't made any noticeable difference so far, but who knows; maybe over the long haul...
...As for the dash cubby, I was afraid it might cause rattles, but surprisingly it doesn't. Even items (ez-pass, garage opener, etc) placed in the bare plastic drawer don't rattle. As an added bonus the drawer can be removed as needed for easy access behind the fusebox or CECM area.
I did seriously look at the dash cubby, and thanks for allaying my concerns about rattles. My only other objection was that, at least on early installations, the lower edge of the new cubby's dash trim piece didn't match the rest of the dash...it hung down another inch or so farther than the rest of the dash, which I didn't care for cosmetically. I can't remember if there was an updated part number for the kit that now matches the S.R.S.-free U.S. dash or not...
Update:
I went to my dealer (Boucher in Racine) and, after admitting to (the service manager
and the parts manager) my foolish error in trying to torque two now-ruined seat rail bolts with the wrong tool, ordered two new bolts. When the bolts came in, I went to pick them up...and the parts manager
gave the bolts to me. He wouldn't take any money, even after I'd told him it was my fault! I have to admit, after all these years...I'm finally impressed by a car dealer.