Am I running rich?

[thedude4bides]

If it is bad gas, you didn't harmed your engine at all (according to logs). If you drive too long with bad gas, eventulay ECU will enter into limp mode and you may have "Check Engine" light. Replace the fuel, log again block 020 and check values. They sould be greater than -3 for example. In ideal case all values across the rev range will be "0". -2, -3 at some revs is OK.

In your situation I woluld also do a reset of the ECU - with VCDS (ignition on,engine off) -> Basic Setings -> Chanel 0 -> Save. This clears all adaptations ECU have made and resolves the issue with gears shift smoothness as well.

Excellent info! Thanks! Just so I'm clear... Resetting ECU only resets adaptation and will leave my tune alone right?

Edit- figured it out. Ressetting ECU in this context refers to resetting adaptation values. No cause for alarm! My anxiety often gets the bets of me and I start doing shit before I know why or what I am doing and, often enough, this is followed by regret.

 

[thedude4bides]

Just to update, I got rid of the bad fuel and filled up with Sunoco 93 last night. I expect to have run through 1/2 tank by tonight. The question I have now is do I wait until after I run logs again to reset adaptation? or do I want to do that prior to running my next set of logs?

 

[Modshack1]

Just to update, I got rid of the bad fuel and filled up with Sunoco 93 last night. I expect to have run through 1/2 tank by tonight. The question I have now is do I wait until after I run logs again to reset adaptation? or do I want to do that prior to running my next set of logs?

Adaptation can take 20-40 miles depending. If you want to set the trims back to Zero and start fresh, just pop off the Neg battery terminal for a minute. The Eprom will dump the memory and you'll start again at 0. Then another 20-40 miles to complete the adaptation.

 

[thedude4bides]

Adaptation can take 20-40 miles depending. If you want to set the trims back to Zero and start fresh, just pop off the Neg battery terminal for a minute. The Eprom will dump the memory and you'll start again at 0. Then another 20-40 miles to complete the adaptation.

Thank you, sir! If I am reading between the lines correctly, I'm picking up that no matter what I'd want to be adapted fully before running my next set of logs. Is that right?

 

[Modshack1]

Thank you, sir! If I am reading between the lines correctly, I'm picking up that no matter what I'd want to be adapted fully before running my next set of logs. Is that right?

True..

 

[thedude4bides]

Updated logs here:
http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=797289#post797289

 

[MKV727]

I'm on my iPhone so I am not able to read the logs in that current format. If you want a second look at them PM me with the logs in a different format.

 

[MKV727]

If the issues started immediately after the installation of the CTS intake it would lead one to believe that's the issue. You have an FSI so your MAF housing is an oblong kind of shape that has a flow straightener. The issues your having *could* be caused by MAF issues but I cannot see your logs so I can't be sure.

CTS stole that intake from BSH and had it shipped to China for production. I doubt the laborers understand the cross sectional area and shape needed to create consistent MAF values.

Occams Razor, the simplest explanation is almost always the answer.

 

[Modshack1]

If the issues started immediately after the installation of the CTS intake it would lead one to believe that's the issue. You have an FSI so your MAF housing is an oblong kind of shape that has a flow straightener. The issues your having *could* be caused by MAF issues but I cannot see your logs so I can't be sure.

CTS stole that intake from BSH and had it shipped to China for production. I doubt the laborers understand the cross sectional area and shape needed to create consistent MAF values.

Occams Razor, the simplest explanation is almost always the answer.

I agree that could be the issue...

A larger tube will result in leaner MAF signals (and appropriate correction %'s), a smaller tube results in richer signals.
Since there is a mistaken theory that "Bigger is better", this causes a problem with poorly engineered intakes.
It all has to do with the speed of air through the intake tube (it's physics...Air flows slower through a larger tube). Any variance from the 2.6" OEM MAF ID will cause differences in requested fuel mixtures and trims....

 

[thedude4bides]

If the issues started immediately after the installation of the CTS intake it would lead one to believe that's the issue. You have an FSI so your MAF housing is an oblong kind of shape that has a flow straightener. The issues your having *could* be caused by MAF issues but I cannot see your logs so I can't be sure.

CTS stole that intake from BSH and had it shipped to China for production. I doubt the laborers understand the cross sectional area and shape needed to create consistent MAF values.

Occams Razor, the simplest explanation is almost always the answer.

Agreed. That was my initial thoughts. Guys on vortex convinced me to stop blaming the intake until after I ran logs. They then proceeded to tell me that the tune was to blame. I then contacted unitronic who said, intake not likely culprit & tune not likely culprit. They said "your problem is bad fuel". Everyone wants to point fingers in the other direction.:iono:

:mad0259::mad0259::mad0259::23::mad0259::mad0259:

 

[B6JoeS4]

Looks like Unitronic has the same tuning issues here and they do in the Audi world. Their tunes are always poorly designed, unsafe, and their customer service is known for being bottom-rung. They still can't figure out how to properly tune a B5 S4 - a car that has been around for 11 years now.

How typical of Unitronic to point fingers at someone/something else. I've been in the Audi world for quite a while and I should tell you guys, avoid Unitronic like the plague. Don't fall for the relatively low prices. There's a reason a tune like APR's will cost more.

 

[Thumper]

Agreed. That was my initial thoughts. Guys on vortex convinced me to stop blaming the intake until after I ran logs. They then proceeded to tell me that the tune was to blame. I then contacted unitronic who said, intake not likely culprit & tune not likely culprit. They said "your problem is bad fuel". Everyone wants to point fingers in the other direction.:iono:

:mad0259::mad0259::mad0259::23::mad0259::mad0259:

Have you tried to re-install the stock intake and run it with the fuel that's still in there? That will diagnosis out both issues a little better. Even though the intake was just put in before the issue it could still be coincidental and related to something else.

 

[thedude4bides]

Have you tried to re-install the stock intake and run it with the fuel that's still in there? That will diagnosis out both issues a little better. Even though the intake was just put in before the issue it could still be coincidental and related to something else.

Exactly what the next step is. Couldn't find time this weekend and bad weather for the next few days. I have an appointment for my courtesy checkup this Thursday at my dealership and I'm not sure if I'll have time before then so I might just have them put stock back in while it's there.

 

[thedude4bides]

Looks like Unitronic has the same tuning issues here and they do in the Audi world. Their tunes are always poorly designed, unsafe, and their customer service is known for being bottom-rung. They still can't figure out how to properly tune a B5 S4 - a car that has been around for 11 years now.

How typical of Unitronic to point fingers at someone/something else. I've been in the Audi world for quite a while and I should tell you guys, avoid Unitronic like the plague. Don't fall for the relatively low prices. There's a reason a tune like APR's will cost more.

APR's is actually cheaper???

 

[MKV727]

APR's is actually cheaper???

APR's tune is especially cheaper when on sale. Only $599 for 4 different files, fault code erase, security lock out and their security features.

I can't tell you how nice it is to switch to the stock or 100 octane file through the cruise control stalk. Having a program designed for 100 octane will make a world of the difference whenever you feel like splurging at the pump. I personally use fault code erase everytime I install a new modification to allow my vehicle to adapt to the new hardware.

I am not I to starting a tuning war, just giving my experience. I also believe nobody does the R&D or has the facilities/capabilities to determine what's best for your vehicle. Let's not forget free upgrades too.

I'm commonly a Unitronic detractor but I believe this to not be an issue with a tune or fuel but hardware. Unitronic probably used a different MAF housing for their tune and the CTS intake is not precise enough to give an accurate reading. These issues are really prevalent on the FSI.